Stilgars Wild Ride 5.8
Angel Food Wall, White Rock Mountain
About the Climb
Stilgars Wild Ride is a nice route just next to the immensely popular Tunnel Vision, and in fact they share the same first pitch. The second pitch has a runout wide chimney, which can be avoided by a little less spooky face climbing section. The route then re-joins Tunnel Vision briefly before the entrance to the tunnel, but takes a different line to the top of Angel Food Wall from there. It is not the best line on the wall, but you'll find interesting climbing from start to finish. If the second and third pitches of Tunnel Vision are crowded, you can use Stilgars Wild Ride to pass people and get to the tunnel before them...
Because the route is so close to Tunnel Vision it is possible to mix sections of Stigars with sections of Tunnel Vision. It's too bad that the best pitches of Tunnel Vision and Stilgars Wild Ride are parrallel to each other, making it impossible to combine the best of both routes in one stellar climb.
There are no other direct combinations possible. If you want to climb another route on Angel Food Wall, you'll have to walk off and return to the base. This takes about 30-45 minutes. If you have climbed Stilgars Wild Ride in its entirety, you should do Tunnel Vision 5.7 afterwards, when it probably has no lines in the afternoon. Another option is to climb Group Therapy 5.7, which also has several wide cracks, so your gear selection will be fine. Another great new and varied route is Purblind Pillar 5.8, which starts only a few feet right of Group Therapy.
Tunnel Vision 5.7, Purblind Pillar 5.8, and Group Therapy 5.7 are all a little similar to Stilgars Wild Ride, although they don't have a wide chimney section to deal with. If you like wide cracks, you can also try Myster Z 5.7 in Juniper Canyon. It has several sections of easy and low-angle wide cracks that provide great steming. Although Myster Z is not a super quality route on its own, it provides a nice way to reach the Brownstone Wall and other great routes like Black Dagger 5.7 and the one of a kind Armatron 5.9.
If you really like big cracks and airy chimneys, you should go for the ultra-classic Epinephrine 5.9, perhaps the most famous 5.9 routes in the States. The crux is a 3 pitch long stellar chimney. Note that this is a step up in difficulty and commitment compared to Stilgars Wild Ride.