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GearLoopTopos in the Desert Towers Collection
List all Individual Routes
Click on the routes below to get more info and order your GearLoopTopos
Bridger Jack Spires, Indian CreekBridger Jack Spires 5.10b-5.11b
If you get tired of cragging at Indian Creek, want to get away from the crowds and want a little more adventure to the top of a tower, then these towers are for you.
Includes: East Face Route (5.10d), Learning to Crawl (5.11b), Sparkling Touch (5.11a), and Thunderbolts (5.10b)
2-3 pitches
20-25 minutes
Morning sun
The Rectory, Castle ValleyFine Jade 5.11a
One of the best classic desert climbs that shouldn’t be missed by the solid 5.10 leader. This climb has sustained but varied crack climbing from thin fingers to fist, short cruxes, amazing exposure and good pro.
4 pitches
1-1½ hours
Sun all day
The Priest, Castle ValleyHoneymoon Chimney 5.11b (5.9 A0)
The route goes up a funky chimney system splitting the west face of The Priest. Get ready for some physically demanding squeezing and chimneying, wildly exposed stemming and face climbing. Great summit.
4 pitches
1-1½ hours
Afternoon sun
Washer Woman, Canyonlands Nat. ParkIn Search of Suds 5.10d
This is a great route, popular and sunny on mostly good quality rock. Add to this great exposure, and incredible views, and you have got an unforgettable adventure.
6 pitches
30 minutes
Afternoon until sunset
Sister Superior, Castle ValleyJah Man 5.10c
Jah Man is an outstanding route offering mostly finger and hand size cracks on fantastic rock, as well as a chimney and a face pitch. It is popular, and a good practice route before doing Fine Jade.
5 pitches
1-2 hours
Mid-morning to sunset
Castleton Tower, Castle ValleyKor-Ingalls 5.9
This is one of the most popular routes in the desert, and for a good reason. All belays are very comfortable, the rock is mostly solid, and it demands a good variety of climbing techniques, especially for the chimney sections.
4 pitches
1-1½ hours
Morning to afternoon
North Six Shooter, Indian CreekLightning Bolt Cracks 5.11a
This is one of the best crack routes that the desert has to offer. It simply has everything: excellent rock, great pro, incredible exposure, and an amazing summit. Must do classic!
4 pitches
1-2 hours
Morning to noon
Castleton Tower, Castle ValleyNorth Chimney 5.9-
The fastest way to the top of Castleton Tower, and although easier than Kor-Ingalls, it is more sustained in nature and a little more committing due to the loose rock and lack of rap anchors past the first pitch.
3 pitches
1-1½ hour
Mostly shade
Independence Monument, Colorado Nat. MonumentOtto's Route 5.9-
Ottos route is a historical climb that was first climbed in 1911. It is a great climb with a few exposed sections, and an exciting last pitch to the cool summit. It is very popular, so it can get crowded on busy weekends.
5 pitches
45-60 minutes
Mostly shade (top pitches PM sun)
Moses, Canyonlands Nat. ParkPrimrose Dihedrals 5.11d (5.10+ A0)
Located in a beautiful, remote area of Canyonlands National Park, this climb is as good as it gets. It ascends a spectacular 500 foot tower on nearly perfect rock. Every single pitch is fun, and the cruxes are pretty short.
7 pitches
20-30 minutes
Sunrise to afternoon
Six Shooters, Indian CreekSouth Six Shooter 5.7-5.10b
The South Six Shooter is perhaps the easiest tower to climb in the desert and it’s a good introduction to moderate multi-pitch desert climbing in a spectacular setting.
Includes: South Face (5.7), South Face Direct (5.9), South Face Right (5.9+), and Diagonal Crack (5.10b)
1-3 pitches
1-2 hours
Most of the day
Ancient Art, Fisher TowersStolen Chimney 5.10c (5.9 A0)
This surprisingly clean route for the Fisher Towers has a little bit of everything, including steep well protected face climbing, a fun mud chimney, and a twisting and super exposed summit that you will remember for a long time.
4 pitches
20-30 minutes
Most of the day
House of Putterman, Tusher CanyonWaldens Room 5.10c (5.9 C1)
This moderate route will test all the skills needed in the desert: hand jams, a challenging chimney/offwidth, a short finger crack and a bouldery face top-out. The crux sections are pretty short and the 5.10 crack can easily be aided.
4 pitches
10-45 minutes
Morning sun
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