Routes on the Desert Towers GearLoopTopos

Sunflower Tower (Bridger Jack), Indian CreekEast Face Route 5.10d

This desert classic has a lot of variety with awesome and aesthetic climbing the whole way. The second pitch ascends an excellent dihedral that is super fun, going from perfect hands to small hands and finishing with fingers.

The Rectory, Castle ValleyFine Jade 5.11a

One of the best classic desert climbs that shouldn’t be missed by the solid 5.10 leader. This climb has sustained but varied crack climbing from thin fingers to fist, short cruxes, amazing exposure and good pro.

The Priest, Castle ValleyHoneymoon Chimney 5.11b (5.9 A0)

The route goes up a funky chimney system splitting the west face of The Priest. Get ready for some physically demanding squeezing and chimneying, wildly exposed stemming and face climbing. Great summit.

Washer Woman, Canyonlands Nat. ParkIn Search of Suds 5.10d

This is a great route, popular and sunny on mostly good quality rock. Add to this great exposure, and incredible views, and you have got an unforgettable adventure.

Sister Superior, Castle ValleyJah Man 5.10c

Jah Man is an outstanding route offering mostly finger and hand size cracks on fantastic rock, as well as a chimney and a face pitch. It is popular, and a good practice route before doing Fine Jade.

Castleton Tower, Castle ValleyKor-Ingalls 5.9

This is one of the most popular routes in the desert, and for a good reason. All belays are very comfortable, the rock is mostly solid, and it demands a good variety of climbing techniques, especially for the chimney sections.

Thumbelina (Bridger Jack), Indian CreekLearning to Crawl 5.11b

Tired of crack climbing? This fun and unique face climb follows superb rock up a mostly bolted arête to the top of Thumbelina.

North Six Shooter, Indian CreekLightning Bolt Cracks 5.11a

This is one of the best crack routes that the desert has to offer. It simply has everything: excellent rock, great pro, incredible exposure, and an amazing summit. Must do classic!

Castleton Tower, Castle ValleyNorth Chimney 5.9-

The fastest way to the top of Castleton Tower, and although easier than Kor-Ingalls, it is more sustained in nature and a little more committing due to the loose rock and lack of rap anchors past the first pitch.

Independence Monument, Colorado Nat. MonumentOtto's Route 5.9-

Ottos route is a historical climb that was first climbed in 1911. It is a great climb with a few exposed sections, and an exciting last pitch to the cool summit. It is very popular, so it can get crowded on busy weekends.

Moses, Canyonlands Nat. ParkPrimrose Dihedrals 5.11d (5.10+ A0)

Located in a beautiful, remote area of Canyonlands National Park, this climb is as good as it gets. It ascends a spectacular 500 foot tower on nearly perfect rock. Every single pitch is fun, and the cruxes are pretty short.

Sparkling Touch (Bridger Jack), Indian CreekSparkling Touch 5.11a

This is a great route with lots of variety featuring sustained hands to fist crack, a bouldery crux face move and a cool step across a gap to gain the summit. The 5.11a move is bolt protected and the rest of the route is mostly 5.10.

Ancient Art, Fisher TowersStolen Chimney 5.10c (5.9 A0)

This surprisingly clean route for the Fisher Towers has a little bit of everything, including steep well protected face climbing, a fun mud chimney, and a twisting and super exposed summit that you will remember for a long time.

Easter Island (Bridger Jack), Indian CreekThunderbolts 5.10b

This is the shortest but most popular tower of the group. It is a super fun moderate route that requires a good blend of crack and face climbing skills. Although the 2nd pitch is well protected, the sandy holds will keep things exciting.

House of Putterman, Tusher CanyonWaldens Room 5.10c (5.9 C1)

This moderate route will test all the skills needed in the desert: hand jams, a challenging chimney/offwidth, a short finger crack and a bouldery face top-out. The crux sections are pretty short and the 5.10 crack can easily be aided.