GearLoopTopos in the Squamish Collection

North Walls, The ChiefAngel's Crest 5.10c

This long and adventurous climb follows the crest above the Sheriff's Badge to the top of the Chief. It has lots of great crack climbing with some horizontal and vertical chimneying at the very end, but the crux is a short bolt protected face.

Apron, The ChiefBanana Peel 5.8

The easiest route on the Apron, zig-zagging its way to the top of the Apron with enjoyable and varied climbing. The crux is short and well-protected, but there are a few runout sections on easier low angle terrain.

The 'Squaw'Birds of Prey 5.10b

Varied and interesting crack climbing with a short well-protected crux and an exciting traverse. The top of the route can be wet from seepage after periods of rain, but retreat is possible from trees.

Apron, The ChiefCalculus Crack 5.8

This crack system near the left edge of the Apron makes a nice practice climb for the steeper cracks on the more popular St. Vitus' Dance. The crux is a short finger crack that takes protection very well.

Apron, The ChiefDiedre 5.8

The most famous and popular route on the Apron, where you will be smiling all the way up the excellent layback corner. As can be expected, the line to get on the route can be long, so it is wise to get up early or prepare for alternatives.

Grand Wall, The ChiefGrand Wall 5.11a A0

This ultimate Squamish classic to the top of the Chief is full of amazing and varied climbing from easy runout dykes to sustained and pumpy finger laybacking. The route can be crowded, but there are several good start variations possible.

The 'Squaw'Great Game 5.10d

Excellent climbing from the first to the last move, with finger pockets, hand cracks, steep and juggy face climbing, and amazing laybacking. Don't miss this one, you won't be disappointed!

The 'Squaw'Jungle Warfare 5.10a

This short route is the easiest way to the top of the 'Squaw' and has nice and varied crack climbing from hands to fingers. The crux in only a few feet off the ground, so there is not much time to warm up.

Apron, The ChiefOver the Rainbow 5.10a

Pitch after pitch of quality moderate slab climbing makes this route perfect for working on your slab technique and footwork. Combined with the Bottom Line and a route on the upper Apron you can make it into an 11-pitch slab outing.

Grand Wall, The ChiefPeasant's Route 5.10c

Fine corner climbing and laybacking up a linkage of corners at the base of the Grand Wall. The route is only a stone's throw from the ever popular Exasperator, so it makes a good alternative if Exasperator is busy.

South Gully, The ChiefRock On 5.10a

This crack climbing fest with lots of finger and hand cracks should not be missed. The route sees little sun, and dries slowly after periods of rain. It makes a great start to the Squamish Buttress (5.10c) or the Ultimate Everything (5.10b).

Apron, The ChiefSnake 5.9

This Apron classic weaves its way to the top of the Apron following a series of corners with great laybacking for several pitches. Be aware that the crux sections can be wet from seepage after rainy periods.

Apron, The ChiefSparrow 5.9+

This old school slab route has some sections with sparse protection and is just runout enough to grab your attention. It is a good alternative if the neighboring slab routes have long lines.

Grand Wall, The ChiefSplit Pillar 5.10b

The Split Pillar is a one-pitch wonder halfway up the Grand Wall that starts as a thin finger crack and gradually widens to hands and then to a short squeeze chimney. You can rap from its top, or continue up the 'Grand Wall'.

Squamish Buttress, The ChiefSquamish Buttress 5.10c

Enjoyable moderate climbing leads up to the centerpiece of the climb: an excellent and sustained finger crack corner. The crux can be aided if necessary. Combine it with a route on the Apron for a great long day to the summit of the Chief.

Apron, The ChiefSt. Vitus' Dance 5.9

Although the start may feel a bit like a vertical jungle excursion, you will quickly forget all about it when you're jamming the superb splitter cracks that follow. The first pitches can be wet from seepage after periods of rain.

Echelon Wall, The ChiefUltimate Everything 5.10b

Not literally the ultimate of everything, but predominantly face climbing with a nice crack traverse as the icing on the cake just before topping out on the Chief. Combine it with a route on the Apron for more than 20 pitches of excellent climbing.