Honeymoon Chimney 5.11b (5.9 A0)
The Priest, Castle Valley
About the Climb
Honeymoon Chimney is an awesome tower climb that offers very unique and exposed climbing along with a tiny summit and an entertaining register to read. Overall, the climbing on Honeymoon Chimney offers very exposed positions and exciting moves the whole way. Contrary to rumors, protection can be adequate for the most part and only a small rack is needed. However, loose rock and old fixed protection will be encountered. Helmets, pants and long sleeve shirts are mandatory!
Although each pitch on Honeymoon Chimney has good quality climbing, the main attraction is the scary looking 1st pitch chimney. If you'll be aiding the bolted face/arete on the third pitch, this will be the crux of the climb. Choose between grunting up the OW by squeezing and using armbars, or simply commit and layback. Either way, it’s a wild pitch that will get your heart pumping. More wild chimneying and stemming follows, and the crux of the climb is encountered when you need to bridge across two walls to reach an exposed arête where face climbing on thin sharp calcite crimpers brings you below the summit.
Honeymoon Chimney faces west and the second pitch consists mostly of tunneling, so you'll get plenty of shade if you start early. It is a good alternative to the more popular routes nearby: North Chimney (5.9-), Kor Ingalls (5.9, and Fine Jade (5.11a). Combine with one of these routes for a full day of climbing.
Note that free campsites and wag bags (donation box) can be found at the trailhead. No water or toilets are available, and the space is limited. Thanks to The Castleton Tower Preservation Initiative, Utah Open Lands (UOL) and the Access Fund. Please respect and protect the integrity of Castleton Tower and its surrounding landscape.
If you're looking for easier chimney routes, you should climb North Chimney (5.9-), or Kor-Ingalls (5.9) before you attempt Honeymoon Chimney. Walden's Room (5.10c or 5.9 C1) also has a great chimney pitch as well as varied face and crack climbing with no crowds.
At a similar grade but with more crack climbing, climb Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11b), or Primrose Dihedrals (5.11d or 5.10+ A0). The Bridger Jack Spires in Indian Creek also offer many short and high quality summits in the 5.10-5.11 range (East Face Route, Learning to Crawl, Sparkling Touch, and Thunderbolts).
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