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GearLoopTopos in the Red Rocks Collection
List all Individual Routes
Click on the routes below to get more info and order your GearLoopTopos
Brownstone Wall, Juniper CanyonArmatron 5.9
Amazing one of a kind route with full pitches of sustained varnish climbing. This route is destined for classic status. Great all day outing if approached by climbing Myster Z instead of hiking in.
4 pitches
1½-2 hours
Sunrise until mid-afternoon
Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek CanyonBeulahs Book 5.9
Excellent short classic with superb face climbing, awesome laybacking, and a short chimney section that can be surpassed by a great face variation. Great way to reach the popular Solar Slab.
4 pitches
¾-1 hour
Sunrise until mid-afternoon
Brass Wall, Pine Creek CanyonBirdland 5.7+
Great sunny line with more than 500 feet of consistent climbing and an amazing finger crack for the icing on the cake. Combine with the Big Horn crack and pitches of Rawlpindi for an amazing day of climbing.
5 pitches
30-45 minutes
Sunrise until end afternoon
Brownstone Wall, Juniper CanyonBlack Dagger 5.7+
Spicy mix of climbing in an amazing setting with wonderful views of the Rainbow Wall. Combine with other routes on the wall to extend the day and get payback for the sweat you lost on the approach.
7 pitches
1½-2 hours
Sunrise until mid-afternoon (corner shade)
Black Arch Wall, Oak Creek CanyonBlack Orpheus 5.9+
This alpine-like Red Rocks classic is long, has many great pitches, some easier terrain with several options, and a long but enjoyable and scenic descent. An amazing outing!
10 pitches
1¼-1½ hour
All day, except low/high on route
SW-face Mescalito, Pine Creek CanyonCat In The Hat 5.6
The moderate and varied climbing makes it the most popular classic at its grade in Red Rocks. This can cause some congestion, but the popularity also keeps climbers away so you might get lucky.
5 pitches
40-50 minutes
Morning until afternoon
SE-face Mescalito, Pine Creek CanyonCookie Monster 5.7
A short lesser known but great route in a fun varnished corner filled with jugs and huecos. Combine Cookie Monster with the top, and best, pitches of Cat in the Hat for an awesome day of climbing.
3 pitches
40-50 minutes
Sunrise until beginning afternoon
Cloud Tower, Juniper CanyonCrimson Chrysalis 5.8
This route is long and sustained with wide cracks and steep face climbing. The variety, the exposure and the rock quality make this one an ultra popular outing.
9 pitches
1-1¼ hour
Limited sun in early morning
Mescalito, Pine Creek CanyonDark Shadows 5.8
A short but amazing climb up a varnished corner filled with huecos, located in perhaps the most scenic oasis in Red Rocks. This is a good route to combine with one of the other classics in Pine Creek Canyon.
4 pitches
40-50 minutes
Early morning on the first two pitches
Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet CanyonDream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a
Maybe the best long route of its grade in Red Rocks with predominantly face and crack climbing, and some slabby cruxes thrown in. Very popular, so it is wise to prepare for one of the many great alternatives.
12 pitches
40-50 minutes
Morning sun (in spring/summer)
Eagle Wall, Oak Creek CanyonEagle Dance 5.10c, A0
An amazingly exposed and long route in a spectacular location with fun and well protected cruxes and a short bolt ladder. A definite Urioste classic.
10 pitches
2-3 hours
Most of the day
Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet CanyonEpinephrine 5.9
This is the 5.9 Red Rocks classic, and it is one of the best routes you will ever do. The slick chimneys are memorable and are followed by lots of superb face and crack climbing. A long and amazing day for most climbers.
16 pitches
¾-1 hour
Sunrise to beginning afternoon
Frigid Air Buttress, Icebox CanyonFrigid Air Buttress 5.9+
Excellent varied climbing adventure with a comfortable ledge at every belay and an amazing finger crack crux section saved for last. Deserves to be climbed more.
9 pitches
20-30 minutes
Mid-morning sun (in spring/summer)
Whiskey Peak, Black Velvet CanyonFrogland 5.8
This amazing moderate route offers excellent and varied climbing and a memorable chockstone squeeze move. Deservingly popular, so get up early or get in line.
7 pitches
30-45 minutes
Morning sun (top NE corner shade)
Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper CanyonGeronimo 5.6
A fun little climb on walls loaded with big jugs, and an excellent alternative if its popular neighbor Olive Oil has a long line. The start of the route can be a bit difficult to find, so be warned.
4 pitches
¾-1 hour
Sunrise until mid-afternoon
Ginger Buttress, Juniper CanyonGinger Cracks 5.9
A superb climb up a prominent crack system on Ginger Buttress. A perfect alternative when its popular neighbor Crimson Chrysalis has long lines.
7 pitches
1-1¼ hours
Sunrise until mid-morning
Angel Food WallGroup Therapy 5.7
An amazing line of easy offwidth, chimney, and face climbing. Do not forget your big gear, or you will face some runouts on easier terrain. Nice alternative if its busy neighbor Tunnel Vision has a long line.
7 pitches
30-40 minutes
Sunrise until beginning afternoon
Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek CanyonJohnny Vegas 5.7
Get a nice feeling of exposure on this short classic, which is surprisingly steep for the grade. From the top of the route, you can continue on Solar Slab (5.6) for an amazing day with more than 10 pitches of moderate climbing.
4 pitches
¾-1 hour
Sunrise to late afternoon
Eagle Wall, Oak Creek CanyonLevitation 29 5.11c
A famous and definite Red Rocks classic, following a long and obvious crack system that is steep and intimidating. You’ll get killer exposure, excellent rock and fantastic views especially if you go to the top.
10 pitches
2-3 hours
Most of the day
Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek CanyonLotta Balls 5.8
A remarkable route with lots of quality climbing. The second pitch is memorable with a delicate and exciting face climbing section on marble size knobs.
Includes: Black Magic (5.8) and Bruja's Brew (5.9)
3 pitches
¾-1 hour
Some morning sun (more in summer)
Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper CanyonMyster Z 5.7
Nice climbing and stemming along easy wide cracks. Not the best route at its grade in Red Rocks, but a pleasant way to reach climbs like Armatron or Black Dagger on the Brownstone wall.
7 pitches
¾-1 hour
Sunrise until mid-afternoon
Brownstone Wall, Juniper CanyonNightcrawler 5.10c
This stunning route ascends an amazingly steep and clean dihedral that will surely get your hart pumping. Many consider that this route contains some of the best climbing of its grade in all of Red Rocks.
6 pitches
1½-2 hours
Sunrise until afternoon (corner more shade)
Rose Tower, Juniper CanyonOlive Oil 5.7
An amazing mix of face, chimney, and crack climbing make this a deservingly popular classic. Although all the difficult moves can be well protected, the easier face climbing sections are a bit runout.
6 pitches
¾-1 hour
Sunrise until mid-afternoon
Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet CanyonPrince of Darkness 5.10c
This mostly bolted steep face climb is a nice challenge for the 5.10 leader. This climb is continuous and the hanging belays will test your foot pain and harness comfort level.
6 pitches
40-50 minutes
Morning sun (in spring/summer)
Angel Food WallPurblind Pillar 5.8
New line on Angel Food Wall full of varied climbing, at least on par with Tunnel Vision and Group Therapy. On a warm day, carry your lunch and enjoy it in the oasis on top. The view is fantastic.
6 pitches
30-40 minutes
Sunrise until mid-afternoon
Brass Wall, Pine Creek CanyonRawlpindi 5.7
This route gets less attention than Birdland, but the climbing is better than it looks. Combine it with the Bighorn Crack and several pitches of Birdland for a great day of climbing.
5 pitches
30-45 minutes
Most of the day, corner gets more shade
Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet CanyonRefried Brains 5.9
The easiest classic on the popular Black Velvet Wall has great climbing at a sustained 5.8-5.9 level and a superb crack pitch. There are many other great climbs on the Black Velvet Wall the fill your day.
4 pitches
40-50 minutes
Some morning sun (in spring/summer)
Corduroy Ridge, Black Velvet CanyonSick For Toys 5.10d
This is a superb slab route on a huge slab that is split by an improbable looking seam that will surely test your slab and crack climbing skills. Although Red Rocks is not known for its slab routes, this one won't disappoint you.
4 pitches
¾-1¼ hours
Morning sun (in spring/summer)
Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek CanyonSolar Slab 5.6
The longest and most popular route of its grade. This classic route provides great climbing and awesome position. Given its length, the approach and the long but scenic descent, it should not be taken lightly.
8 pitches
¾-1 hour to gully
Sunrise until end afternoon
Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet CanyonSour Mash 5.10a
This route is excellent, varied, and is the shorter classic on the right side of the Black Velvet wall. It has very well bolted crux moves, making it a good route to break into the grade.
7 pitches
40-50 minutes
Morning sun (in spring/summer)
Angel Food WallTunnel Vision 5.7
This unique climbing and caving mix route is a very popular Red Rocks classic. Do not forget your headlamp for the famous tunnel pitch unless it is very sunny. Plan for an alternative if the route is too busy.
6 pitches
30-40 minutes
Rare sun exposure (many NE corners)
Ginger Buttress, Juniper CanyonUnimpeachable Groping 5.10b
A beautiful, straightforward and generously bolted multipitch sport route up steep white and varnished rock. It has great exposure, sustained face climbing and even a cool roof problem.
Includes: Power Failure (5.10b)
6 pitches
1-1½ hour
Sunrise until beginning afternoon
Mescalito, Pine Creek CanyonY2K 5.10a
Great consistent 5.8 climbing with one well protected, 5.10a roof move. This is a perfect route for lead climbers to break into the low 5.10 grade.
4 pitches
40-50 minutes
Morning on the bottom pitches
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