Angel's Crest 5.10c
North Walls, The Chief
About the Climb
Angel's Crest is one of the longest multi-pitch classics in Squamish, following the crest just south of the North Gully all the way to the top of the Chief. This adventurous route has a nice alpine-feel to it due to its length, its position, and the views.
The climbing is extremely varied and interesting from start to finish, and includes a short 5.10c face crux, great 5.10a-5.10b crack climbing, and interesting horizontal and vertical chimneying. Because the crux is short and bolt-protected, a confident 5.10b leader should not have any problems. Angel's crest has a few sections of rope transfer, but it does not distract from the fun of climbing, and adds to the alpine feeling.
Because of the length of Angel's Crest, and the fact that the route goes all the way to the top of the Chief, there are few possible combinations. It is possible to start on Borderline (5.10d) on the Sheriff's Badge for about 7-8 pitches, and then connect to Angel's Crest and continue to the top. This would make for a very long day.
If you climb very fast, and want to squeeze in a few more pitches, you can climb Blazing Saddles (5.10b) on the left side of the Sheriff's Badge before starting on Angel's Crest. This is an excellent climb of only 2 pitches, but you have to climb the first 2 pitches (5.10b) of Borderline to get to the start. From the top of Blazing Saddles you can rap back down, and do the short hike to the start of Angel's Crest.
If you are looking for great long routes to the top of the Chief at a similar grade, you should combine the Squamish Buttress (5.10c) or the Ultimate Everything (5.10b) with a route on the Apron. Combining Rock On (5.10a) with the Ultimate Everything (5.10b) would be a superb day full of quality climbing.
To maximize the number of pitches do the following: Start all the way at the base of the Apron on The Bottom Line (5.9). This is a short slab route that starts directly from the trail along the base of the Apron, and finishes at the right end of the Diedre Ledge. From the Diedre Ledge you can continue on many routes, the most classic being Diedre (5.8) and Banana Peel (5.8). After arriving on the Broadway Ledge, you can continue directly onto Boomstick Crack (5.7) for 1 or 2 pitches. From the top of the Boomstick Crack you hike through trees and on slabs, and cross the South Gully to the start of the Ultimate Everything. (5.10b).