Ultimate Everything 5.10b
Echelon Wall, The Chief
About the Climb
The Ultimate Everything is a great moderate route to the top of the Chief. Despite its name it is not the ultimate mix of climbing, but it is mainly a face climb with some crack climbing thrown in for variety. Almost every pitch has interesting climbing, and the best is saved for last; a hand crack traverse on smearing feet. This traverse is the crux of the route, but it protects very well.
Because The Ultimate Everything starts above the Broadway ledge, you either have to climb a route on the Apron, or hike up the Apron descent trail (fastest option). Once on the Broadway Ledge, you still have to climb a single pitch route, and continue a little upward on slabs and through trees. There are fixed lines to cross the South Gully and get to the start of the climb.
It is best to give The Ultimate Everything some time to dry after periods of rain because the large groove on the second pitch (5.7) can be very wet and slippery.
The best way to get to the Broadway Ledge is to climb a route on the Apron, which has a high density of routes, so there are plenty of options to choose from. To maximize the number of pitches, you can start all the way at the base of the Apron on The Bottom Line (5.9). This is a short slab route that starts directly from the trail along the base of the Apron, and finishes at the right end of the Diedre Ledge. From the Diedre Ledge you can continue on many routes, the most classic being Diedre (5.8) and Banana Peel (5.8). After arriving on the Broadway Ledge, you can continue directly onto Boomstick Crack (5.7) for 1 or 2 pitches. From the top of the Boomstick Crack you hike through trees and on slabs, and cross the South Gully to the start of the route.
If you climb routes on the north side of the Apron (Snake (5.9), Saint Vitus' Dance (5.9), Vector (5.9), or Calculus Crack (5.8)), your best option is to climb Memorial Crack (5.9) afterwards to get above Broadway.
Another great alternative is to climb Rock On (5.10a), which starts in the North Gully just north of the Apron. Rock On has lots of superb crack climbing and laybacking, giving your day a nice balance of crack and face climbing. After topping out on Rock On, the start of The Ultimate Everything is only a short hike away.
Most of the multi-pitch climbs in Squamish have lots of crack climbing and not so much face climbing, with the exception of the Apron. The Apron has a high density of routes, many of them with great face/slab climbing. If you want to test your footwork, check out some of these classic Apron routes: Banana Peel (5.8), Sparrow (5.9+), or Over the Rainbow (5.10a).
The Squamish Buttress (5.10c) is similar to The Ultimate Everything in the sense that it also starts above the Broadway Ledge, and goes all the way to the top of the Chief. However, The Squamish Buttress has much more crack climbing with a superb finger crack crux pitch (5.10c)