Crying Time Again 5.10a & Direct NW Face 5.10c
About the Climb
Crying Time Again is an awesome face climb that ascends a beautiful golden wall covered in knobs. Even though this climb has many bolts, it is not a sport climb. The bolts can be very hard to see at times, especially on the first pitch. The climbing is sustained, steep and engaging, following a meandering line of weakness. The only real runout section on the route is a 5.7 mantle with poor pro on pitch 2, but the rest of the route is fairly well protected. The last pitch has a few different options, like a 5.9R protected by an old bolt that is supposedly excellent, but most will opt for the safely bolted 5.10a. Overall, Crying Time Again is a fabulous face climb with a very short approach. This is a must-do Tuolumne classic for sure.
The neighboring route Direct Northwest Face is also a quality route that follows a great crack system from bottom to top. The climbing is not very sustained, and the crux is very short and protects very well. This is a great route to push your limits if you're just braking into the 5.10 grade. This route offers amazing views of the Meadows and very enjoyable climbing overall. The climbing feels pretty different from pitch to pitch, going from delicate slab and pin scars, an awesome hand crack, and a finger crack crux with a tricky slab move. The fun thing with this route is that the difficulties build up nicely from pitch to pitch as you make your way up the wall.
For a full day of climbing on Lembert dome it's extremely easy to warm up on Crying Time Again, walk down the slabs, and immediately get on the Direct Northwest Face.
If you are looking for something easy to finish the day on or want to take a beginner up a nice route, check out Northwest Books (5.6), which has a great first pitch for the grade.
For exciting single pitch routes, check-out the Water Crack routes located on the West Face.
For other great routes like Crying Time Again, at a similar grade and with a fun mix of face and crack climbing, check out Great Pumpkin (5.8R), Roseanne (5.9R), On the Lamb (5.9), Jailbreak (5.9) and Blown Away (5.9).
For other great crack routes like Direct Northwest Face at a similar grade, check out Lucky Streaks (5.10d), OZ (5.10d) the Gram Traverse (5.10d), and the Regular Route (5.10a) on the Third Pillar of Dana.