Black Streak 5.10b
Devil's Castle, Little Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
The Black Streak is a super fun, classic alpine climb located in one of the most beautiful areas of the Wasatch Range: Devil's Castle. Cruxes are short and well protected, and the route has a great alpine feel to it. The Black Streak is a great choice on hot summer days when the temps are over 100 degrees in the Salt Lake Valley.
This mostly bolted climb is located on an uninspiring looking dark cliff in the heart of the famous Alta ski area, and even though it has some dirty/loose sections, it feels surprisingly clean overall. This is high alpine climbing, so don’t expect perfect rock quality! Once up there, you’ll be rewarded with amazing views of the surrounding peaks, valleys, and ski areas.
The route can easily be climbed without gear, if you’re OK with some longer runouts, but some will want to bring a light rack to supplement the bolts. Consider climbing something else if someone’s already on the route (the neighboring Horns of Satan (5.10b) is an excellent alternative). Helmets are mandatory as rockfall potential is a constant threat, so be careful. Also beware of fast moving afternoon thunderstorms and dress appropriately, since you’ll be climbing above 10000'. In early season, the road leading up to the campground might be closed (usually open by 4th of July), so be prepared to add about 45 to 60 minutes to the approach in that case.
If you’re planning on camping in the area, get a site at the Albion campground. Great hiking trails, lakes, peaks and ridges are easily accessible from here. Please stay on trail and don’t step on the fragile vegetation in order to help preserve this pristine area.
Several other climbs have been put up on Devil's Castle in recent years. If you climb fast enough, it is possible to combine The Black Streak with another route to make it a full day. Combine with Horns of Satan (5.10b), Evil Eye (5.11a) or Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b) for a similar adventure.
If you run out of time, or don't feel like getting on another multi-pitch, you should check out the single pitch routes at Cecret Lake. Several small crags can be found in the area around the lake.
If you are looking for multi-pitch climbs at a similar grade, and in a similar setting, you should try Horns of Satan (5.10b), which is very similar to The Black Streak. Other great multi-pitch routes at a similar grade include Arm and Hammer (5.10a A0), Precious Lost (5.10a), Triple Overhangs (5.10a) or Vertical Smile (5.10a).