Precious Lost 5.10a & Sumatra 5.10b
Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon
About the Climb
Precious Lost and Sumatra are two new routes on the shady side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Both routes are fun, adventurous, not very sustained and consist mostly of slab and crack climbing. Cruxes are short and well protected. Because these routes are new, and are not included in the current local guidebook, they are rarely crowded. If you liked the last pitch of Pentapitch, you will certainly enjoy the position that these routes offer. Both routes share the same first pitch, and go through a dirty, low angle 2nd pitch. Expect some loose rock and dirty sections.
Precious Lost is the longer route of the two and offers a lot of variety and quality moves. The highlights on this route are several great slab moves, a widening crack on the 3rd pitch, a roof crux on the 5th pitch and an exposed finish over flakes on the last pitch. Overall, Precious Lost is not sustained and feels more like a 5.9 with a few moves of 5.10. The protection is good with a variety of bolts and natural pro.
Sumatra is located just to the left of Precious Lost, and branches out left on the second pitch. It then takes you up a very fun slab and dike crux section on the 3rd pitch, which is the highlight of the route. Both the 1st and 3rd pitches are really fun, with clean rock and excellent climbing. However, pitches 2 and 4 are lower angle and a little more dirty. The rock and pro are mostly good and the moves and position are excellent.
CAUTION: These are relatively new routes, and there is still some loose rock. Be extremely careful with loose blocks, as rockfall potential is a real issue in this area. If a party is already on the route, consider something else and avoid hanging out at the base.
From the top of pitch 4 on Precious Lost, which is also the top of Sumatra, it is possible to go left and join into pitch 4 of Stiffler's Mom (5.11a). This is a great linkup, but it would be a shame not to climb the bottom pitches of this stellar route, and miss the upper pitches of Precious Lost.
If you decide to descend back to the base after climbing Precious Lost or Sumatra, Doggystyle (5.10c) can easily be climbed if you want to extend your day. If you are looking for something a little bit harder, and you are a fast climber, the best option is to jump on Stiffler's Mom (5.11a), which is not too far on the left. If you are looking for an easier route, walk to the west and get on Pentapitch/Sasquatch (5.8/5.9+), Neuromancer (5.11a), or Endless Torment (5.10b).
For more multi-pitch routes at a similar grade, drive up to Alta and climb the Black Streak (5.10b) or Horns of Satan (5.10b). If you can make it to Lone Peak Cirque, make sure to try Vertical Smile (5.10a) or Triple Overhangs (5.10a), which are both excellent.