Routes on the Tuolumne GearLoopTopos

Pywiack DomeAqua Knobby 5.9

Aqua Knobby is a great little route right next to the road with fun slab and great cracks. A new bolted variation on the first pitch makes this route even better, and the steep crux and exposed knob sections above the roof are as good as it gets.

Lembert DomeBeginner's Route 5.4

Beginner’s Route is one of the easiest multi-pitch routes in Yosemite. It offers two main options: the regular route squeezes up a short chimney, while a longer face variation tackles a couple bulges and a tricky face sequence.

Daff DomeBlown Away 5.9

Blown Away starts with the first 2 pitches of West Crack and then heads left on a beautifully exposed slab for some very exciting face climbing. It continues up an airy arête and finishes with a mind-blowing overhanging corner.

Includes: Witch of the West (5.9) & West of the Witch (5.8)

Stately Pleasure DomeThe Boltway 5.9

The Boltway is a bolted face climb that weaves up the beautiful slabs above Hermaphrodite Flake. It is well protected by Tuolumne Standards, and the last pitch features balancy edging on superb glacier polish.

Daff DomeCooke Book 5.10a

Cooke Book is an old school classic with tons of excellent climbing. It is physically demanding and packed with burly liebacking, jamming and finger locks. The route is rarely crowded and stays in the shade until the afternoon.

Includes: Bombs Over Tokyo (5.10c)

Daff DomeCresent Arch 5.9+

Crescent Arch is one of the best routes in Tuolumne Meadows. It follows the huge right curving dihedral splitting Daff Dome’s West Face. This route is fairly sustained and features consistent 5.9 climbing throughout as well as a very airy finish.

Includes: Witch of the West (5.9), West of the Witch (5.8), and Bombs over Tokyo (5.10c)

North DomeCrest Jewel Direct 5.10d

Crest Jewel Direct adds 5 excellent and technical pitches to the already amazing Crest Jewel route, and pushes the grade to 5.10d. Expect fun, steep face climbing on razor sharp edges and a very well protected crux.

North DomeCrest Jewel 5.10a

Crest Jewel is an amazing bolted climb featuring pitch after pitch of stellar slab climbing on impeccable granite. The views are spectacular, and if you’re willing to endure the long approach, this might be the best long slab climb you will ever do.

Lembert DomeCrying Time Again 5.10a

Crying Time Again is a Tuolumne classic at the grade. This meandering line follows weaknesses up a beautiful golden wall full of knobs. Each pitch has a different feel, and the climbing is sustained, steep, and engaging.

Pywiack DomeDike Route 5.9R

Dike Route is a classic Tuolumne slab route that follows a dike system on perfect granite. Most of this exciting route is sparsely protected, with a considerable runout on 5.8 ground, so make sure you’re a confident 5.9 slab climber.

Lembert DomeDirect NW Face 5.10c

This quality route follows a continuous crack system from bottom to top. The climbing is fairly sustained at around 5.9 with a short 5.10c crux that protects very well, but beware of a final 5.9 slab move near the top.

Fairview DomeGreat Pumpkin 5.8R

Great Pumpkin is a super fun route that links up a series of flakes, corners and knobby face sections. The climbing is aesthetic, enjoyable and clean with some exciting run-outs and a routefinding section on the last pitch.

Stately Pleasure DomeGreat White Book 5.6R

This huge left facing corner is the most classic moderate wide climb in Tuolumne. But don’t let the 5.6 rating fool you: the wide sections might feel awkward and slippery, and protection is sparse and can be hard to place.

Stately Pleasure DomeHermaphrodite Flake 5.4 or 5.7

This huge detached flake is a fun and unique route for novice climbers. However, it might feel committing and a little strenuous to some 5.4 climbers. The chimney section through a tunnel offers little pro and is a bit spooky, but feels very secure.

Mariuolumne DomeHobbit Book 5.7R

Hobbit Book is an excellent route with fantastic views, killer rock, lots of varied and sustained climbing, and a very exciting runout pitch. It requires a semi-long and exposed approach as well as a long descent, making it a full day affair for many.

Includes: Seconds to Darkness (5.8) and Mmmm...Crackahol (5.9/5.10a)

Lamb DomeJailbreak 5.9

Jailbreak is a great way to finish On the Lamb because it actually goes to the summit. It heads up a challenging bolted slab following a line of knobs and dikes. The route is bolted in Tuolumne style, and bolts are found where they are needed.

Fairview DomeLucky Streaks 5.10d

Lucky Streaks is a spectacular route that should not be missed by 5.10 climbers. It is a notch harder than Regular Route, and although the short crux section is easy for the grade, it will surely test your finger crack skills.

Pywiack DomeNeedle Spoon 5.10a

Needle Spoon is an overlooked slab climb that will certainly challenge your friction ability on exquisite glacier polished golden granite. It is more sustained and more technical than Dike Route and is relatively well protected by Tuolumne standards.

Eichorn's PinnacleNorth Face 5.4

Eichorn’s Pinnacle is a spectacular spire, and it makes perfect sense to climb its short North Face route after summiting Cathedral Peak, since it is located directly behind it. Expect a lot of exposure on the initial traverse!

Lembert DomeNorthwest Books 5.6

Northwest Books is probably the best moderate multi-pitch in Tuolumne, and it's perfect for those new to trad climbing. This route is not very sustained, but a challenging polished layback on the first pitch will demand your attention.

Includes: Beginner's Route (5.4)

Tenaya PeakNorthwest Buttress 5.5

This superb, long, and easy climb ascends the NW buttress of Tenaya Peak on slick, clean, and knobless white granite. The summit views of Half Dome, Mathes Crest and other domes are simply incredible. Great simul-climbing practice!

Lamb DomeOn The Lamb 5.9

On the Lamb is extremely fun and very unusual because it actually traverses more than it goes up. This route offers 500ft of incredibly exposed climbing along a uniquely featured horizontal dike/crack. The Jailbreak finish makes it even better.

Includes: Little Sheba (5.10a), Jailbreak (5.9), and Sleeper Finish (5.9R)

Drug DomeOZ 5.10d & Gram Traverse 5.10d

OZ is one of the best and most spectacular routes in Tuolume. It features a hard but well bolted steep face linking into an amazing dihedral that ends up under a huge roof. This corner is long, and features sustain laybacking and incredible stemming.

Fairview DomeRegular Route 5.9

Regular Route is deservedly the most popular multi-pitch climb in Tuolumne. The route is as classic as it gets: it follows a long, continuous crack system all the way to the top, and features cracks of all sizes with excellent protection.

Third Pillar of Dana PlateauRegular Route 5.10a

This route is amazing. It requires a long, but very scenic approach, and packs in a wide variety of sustained and exposed climbing on very high quality granite. The last pitch is simply spectacular, and the exposure and top-out are absolutely awesome.

Fairview DomeRoseanne 5.9R

Roseanne is a great route that delivers plenty of exposure and airy face climbing. It is slightly runout, and the line meanders around linking knobs and edges that seam to appear just where you need them.

Stately Pleasure DomeSouth Crack 5.8R

South Crack is a very popular climb mixing an exquisite blend of crack and face climbing. The first part of the route follows an absolutely beautiful finger crack, while the second half features exciting runout slabs with limited protection.

Cathedral PeakSoutheast Buttress 5.6

Cathedral Peak has one of the coolest summit in Tuolumne Meadows, and the Southeast Buttress offers delightful climbing on featured rock with endless variations. This is a must do classic alpine route!

Includes: North Face (5.4) of Eichorn's Pinnacle

North DomeSouth Face 5.8

The South Face Route offers a rewarding mix of crack climbing, friction and liebacking on great rock. Because it requires a long approach, it’s a great choice if you want to stay away from the crowds and climb in a spectacular location.

Matthes CrestSouth to North Traverse 5.7

This unusual traverse features mostly scrambling along a fantastic knife edge ridge, and contains only a few fifth class sections and a single 5.7 move. This route has a great alpine feel, and offers breathtaking views in a spectacular location.

Stately Pleasure DomeWest Country 5.7

West Country is a fun climb with a little bit of everything, including an awkward polished dihedral and a slightly runout friction slab. With such a quick approach, it’s no surprise that it’s so popular.

Includes: Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4 or 5.7) & The Boltway (5.9)

Daff DomeWest Crack 5.9

West Crack is an incredibly good route packed with lots of great crack climbing. The route is mostly 5.8 with a single 5.9 move marking the start, and it’s a great choice if you need to perfect your crack climbing and jamming skills.

Includes: Witch of the West (5.9) & West of the Witch (5.8)

Pywiack DomeZee Tree 5.7

The moderate difficulty and the closely-spaced bolts make Zee Tree a great introduction to slab climbing at Tuolumne Meadows. Throw in a very short approach, and it is easy to see why this is a very popular climb.