Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon
About the Climb
Armatron is a one of a kind new route with two full pitches of climbing on tiles of varnish. It is simply amazing. If the route wasn't located on the Brownstone wall, there would be lines from sunrise until sunset!
The climbing is mostly face climbing on varnish, combined with a little bit of crack climbing. The first 2 pitches have 5.8 climbing, with only a short 5.9 section that is protected by a bolt. The top pitches are filled with awesome and sustained 5.6 climbing on tile-shaped varnish for two rope lengths.
From the Brownstone Wall the views of the Rainbow Wall and the rest of Red Rocks are amazing, and definitively worth the longer approach. An enjoyable way to reach Armatron, and avoid the 1.5-2 hour walk in, is to climb Myster Z (5.7). After topping out on Myster Z, it takes only about 10 minutes to reach Armatron.
Note that as of spring 2007, there was a loose block just above the bolt on the second pitch. This block is above your belayer, so you really don't want to pull it off! Pay attention!
The best option for a full day of climbing is to start with Myster Z (5.7) to get to the Brownstone Wall. If you prefer to hike to the Brownstone Wall and want to extend your day there, you can climb one of the classics like Black Dagger (5.7) or The Nightcrawler (5.10b). A great combo is to warm-up with Armatron and finish with the amazing corner system of The Nightcrawler.
Black Dagger (5.7) goes all the way to the top of the Brownstone Wall, and does not have any fixed belays. If you plan to combine Black Dagger and Armatron, it might be best to start on Black Dagger and finish the day on Armatron. Because the belay station on Armatron are equipped for rappel, it is easy to retreat in case you run out of daylight or energy.
There are no other climbs in Red Rocks with such sustained varnish climbing. The only route that somewhat comes close to Armatron is Going Nuts (5.6). This route starts on the Solar Slab ledge and makes an excellent alternative start to the popular Solar Slab (5.6).