Ginger Cracks 5.9
Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon
About the Climb
Ginger Cracks is a superb climb up a prominent crack system on Ginger Buttress. It has consistent 5.7-5.8 climbing on most of its pitches. The 5.9 crux is short and protected by a bolt, making the route perfect for breaking into the 5.9 grade. The bottom pitches all have bolted belays, making the descent easy. If you go to the top of Ginger Buttress, which is recommended, then you descend by Power Failure (5.10b) just around the corner from Ginger Cracks.
Because the route is just around the corner from the popular Crimson Chrysalis (5.8), it makes a perfect alternative if the lines there are too long.
If you descend by Power Failure (5.10b), you can take advantage of this opportunity and climb this short and varied route. Another options is Unimpeachable Groping, which is just around the corner from Ginger Cracks. This route is a nice and very well bolted face climb, with bolted belays. So if you run out of energy, or daylight, you can rap down from any anchor.
Alternatively, if you are in for a very long day you can consider combining with Crimson Chrysalis (5.8), located just around the corner only a few minutes away. Because Crimson Chrysalis is very popular and usually busy, and might not be very time efficient if you also want to climb Ginger Cracks.
Because the crux is so short, Ginger Cracks can best be compared to other 5.8 climbs. Other great climbs of similar grade and length are Crimson Chrysalis (5.8),Frogland (5.8), and Purblind Pillar (5.8).
If you are looking for a long routes at a slighly higher grade, you should try Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+) or Black Orpheus (5.9+). Both routes have lots of variation and short cruxes, although these cruxes are harder than on Ginger Cracks.
For a shorter route with more 5.9 climbing, consider climbing Refried Brains (5.9) in Black Velvet Canyon. All the climbing is secure with good protected, and the crux pitch is an amazing crack.