Myster Z 5.7
Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper Canyon
About the Climb
Myster Z is a very pleasant route at the entrance of Juniper Canyon. The route provides amazing views, gets a lot of sun and goes to the top of Jackrabbit Buttress. The first pitch is the crux and has the best climbing. The upper pitches have enjoyable and easier wide cracks with great stemming.
The best thing about Myster Z is that it finishes directly below the Brownstone Wall. While it might not be the best 5.7 route in Red Rocks, it is a great way to reach the Brownstone Wall and it beats the hike up there for sure.
As mentioned above, the best option for extending your climbing day is to climb a route on the Brownstone Wall after toping out on Myster Z. Depending on your climbing abilities and the amount of time left, you have several options.
If you haven't climbed Armatron (5.9) before, our best advice is to climb this one of a kind route full of beautiful varnish tiles. There is only one 5.9 move on it, and the rest of the climbing is sustained in the 5.6-5.8 range. From the top of Myster Z, you'll only need to walk 300 yards to reach the base of Armatron, making it an easy combination. All the belays are bolted, so if you run out of time it's very easy to retreat.
Another option on the Brownstone Wall is Black Dagger (5.7). Although it is also rated 5.7, it is a Joe Herbst route and a bit spicy for the grade. It is more committing than Armatron because there are no bolted belays, requiring you to go to the top of the wall. Combined with Myster Z, this would make a pretty long day.
If you can handle it, you can also go for The Nightcrawler (5.10c), which has some superb laybacking up a beautiful and steep corner. Because the belays are bolted on this one, retreat is always possible if you run out of time.
If you don't want to climb on the Brownstone Wall, but still want to have a long climbing day, you can climb Geronimo (5.6) before or after Myster Z. However, it would be a shame not to take advantage of the fact that Myster Z puts you right at the base of the Brownstone Wall.
If you like wide cracks, your next climb should be on the Angel Food Wall. Group Therapy (5.7) has lots of wide cracks, Purblind Pillar (5.8) is one of the most diverse routes on the wall, and the classic Tunnel Vision (5.7) is a popular and one of a kind caving experience.